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Apple Dutch Baby

video: Ben Powell music: Matt Bryant titles: Jeff Nitzberg copyright: Elizabeth Winslow

I have always been a little bit of a fool about breakfast.  One morning each week, we revel in these indulgent, stolen hours to do next to nothing, to hole up, to be made new again.  I like to eat childlike things, stay in my pajamas, and balance a plate on my lap amid piles of newspaper pages, fingers sticky with something sweet and drink one too many cups of coffee, the morning carved out of time like a little miracle.

The Dutch Baby too is a little like a miracle, and inspires me to share with you one of my favorite poems (recipe follows).

A Miracle for Breakfast

Elizabeth Bishop

At six o’clock we were waiting for coffee,
waiting for coffee and the charitable crumb
that was going to be served from a certain balcony
–like kings of old, or like a miracle.
It was still dark. One foot of the sun
steadied itself on a long ripple in the river.

The first ferry of the day had just crossed the river.
It was so cold we hoped that the coffee
would be very hot, seeing that the sun
was not going to warm us; and that the crumb
would be a loaf each, buttered, by a miracle.
At seven a man stepped out on the balcony.

He stood for a minute alone on the balcony
looking over our heads toward the river.
A servant handed him the makings of a miracle,
consisting of one lone cup of coffee
and one roll, which he proceeded to crumb,
his head, so to speak, in the clouds–along with the sun.

Was the man crazy? What under the sun
was he trying to do, up there on his balcony!
Each man received one rather hard crumb,
which some flicked scornfully into the river,
and, in a cup, one drop of the coffee.
Some of us stood around, waiting for the miracle.

I can tell what I saw next; it was not a miracle.
A beautiful villa stood in the sun
and from its doors came the smell of hot coffee.
In front, a baroque white plaster balcony
added by birds, who nest along the river,
–I saw it with one eye close to the crumb–

and galleries and marble chambers. My crumb
my mansion, made for me by a miracle,
through ages, by insects, birds, and the river
working the stone. Every day, in the sun,
at breakfast time I sit on my balcony
with my feet up, and drink gallons of coffee.

We licked up the crumb and swallowed the coffee.
A window across the river caught the sun
as if the miracle were working, on the wrong balcony.

Apple Dutch Baby
4 T. butter
2 apples, cored and cut into wedges
1/4 c. brown sugar
¾ c. flour
½ t. salt
4 eggs
2/3 c. milk
1 t. vanilla
Powdered sugar (optional)

Preheat oven to 450°. Melt butter in a 9”–10” cast-iron (or other ovenproof) skillet. Scoop out 2 tablespoons melted butter and reserve. Add the apples to the pan and sauté until they begin to soften and brown. Add brown sugar and stir until sugar melts. Remove from heat and set aside.

Mix flour and salt in a medium bowl. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs with milk, vanilla and reserved melted butter. Whisk into flour mixture, stirring just until combined (some lumps will remain). Pour batter over the apples and place in oven. Bake 15–18 minutes, until puffed and golden. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, if desired. Cut into wedges and serve.

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I met Paula Disbrowe on New Year’s Eve three years ago.  She’s tall and very pretty, with long legs, high cheekbones and a classic sense of style.  That night, she was dressed like a lady, but cussed like a sailor, a combination I find irresistable.  It was a while before we saw each other again, but when we met for lunch and finally shared confidences over a bottle of bitingly cold, steely white wine, our conversation felt easy and effortless, the beginnings of a friendship that has always felt both familiar and exciting.  Aside from being one of the best storytellers I know, she’s courageous and not afraid of making bold, epic decisions.  She has cooked at a chateau in France, covered the food beat in New York city, written award-winning cookbooks, and traveled far and wide, but my favorite story is about the time she came back to New York from an assignment in Texas, packed up everything she owned and moved out to Rio Frio to run a gourmet fitness ranch as the cowgirl chef.  Paula chronicled this experience in Cowgirl Cuisine, a cookbook I’ve read cover to cover.  A love letter to her years in West Texas, the book is a fantastic read, and the recipes inside are exactly what you want to eat.  Paula’s cooking is always perfect–the food she cooks is big-hearted and fun, delicious and interesting, and the best part is that every dish tells the story of a life lived large.

Ruby Salad with Crumbled Feta and Spicy Pepitas

from Cowgirl Cuisine, by Paula Disbrowe

to prepare beets:

1 bunch beets, trimmed and scrubbed

2-3 fresh thyme or rosemary sprigs or 3 fresh bay leaves

1/2 tsp. salt

olive oil

for the vinaigrette:

1 Tbs dijon mustard

2 Tbs sherry wine vinegar

2 Tbs fresh lemon juice

salt & pepper

1/4 c olive oil

for the salad:

4 c very thinly sliced red cabbage

1 medium red onion, very thinly sliced

4 c mixed baby greens (sometimes I just increase the red cabbage and leave this out, sometimes I add thinly sliced raddichio)

6 oz feta cheese, crumbled

(I also add chopped cilantro)

1 c spicy pepitas (recipe follows)

To roast the beets, preheat the oven to 400.  Line a baking sheet with foil.  Put the beets, herbs, salt, and a drizzle of oil in the center.  Toss the beets to coat.  Fold the foil in a loose-fitting but tightly sealed packet around the beets.  Roast the packet on the baking sheet until the beets are tender, about 1 hour and 15 minutes.  Let the beets cool completely in the foil.  When cool, use a paring knife to peel and slice he beets into wedges (beets can be roasted up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated).

In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, lemon juice, 1/4 tsp salt, and a few grinds of black pepper.  Slowly whisk in the oil.

To assemble the salad, combine the cabbage and onion in a medium bowl and set aside.  Up to an hour before serving, add the beet wedges to the cabbage and onion and gently toss with half the vinaigrette.

Just before serving, add the baby greens, half of the feta, and half of the pepitas; toss with the remaining vinaigrette.  Arrange on a big serving platter and garnish with the remaining feta and pepitas.

spicy pepitas: toss 6 oz pepitas (pumpkin seeds) with 1 tsp oil, 1 tsp chile powder, and 3/4 tsp salt.  Spread evenly on a rimmed baking sheet and roast at 375 until golden and fragrant, 6-8 minutes (you’ll hear them popping).  Cool completely on the baking sheet.  Can be made ahead and stored in an airtight container.

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There is a lull, a tiny one, between Thanksgiving and Christmas.  In this momentarily quiet space, I am ever so grateful for the chance to enjoy the full bounty of the autumn fields on homey evenings with my family.  Fall itself is an all too brief season in Central Texas, and I relish the chance for walks through fallen leaves in the weak sunshine of the afternoon, a season to be a little melancholy, to ponder, to read, to cook comforting recipes, to nest.

These flaky hand pies are one of my favorite ways to be self-indulgent.  The crust, adapted from Tartine, will easily become your go-to pastry recipe.  It comes together quickly and is amazingly sturdy, stretchy, pliable, and just about as buttery and flaky as puff pastry.  It contains no sugar, so is also perfect for savory pies as well.  In this recipe, the pastry surrounds a sweet and tart apple filling, warm with spices, and rich, earthy and complex with the addition of ever-so-slightly mysterious cheddar cheese.

Maple-Glazed Apple Cheddar Hand Pies

makes 4

1 pound apples
2 t fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/2 t ground cinnamon
Pinch ground nutmeg
Pinch salt
2 T butter
2 T all-purpose flour
1/2 recipe of flaky tart dough
1 cup cubed cheddar
1 large egg lightly beaten with 1 T water

Maple Glaze, recipe follows

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.  Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.  In a bowl, toss the apples with the lemon juice. Add the sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt and toss to combine.  In a saute pan, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Cook apple mixture for 7 to 10 minutes until apple juices release and apples are slightly softened. Sprinkle flour over mixture.  Cook for about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and cool.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the pastry dough. Using a saucer or a lid as a guide, cut the pastry into 5″ circles.

Add the cubed cheese to cooled apple mixture.  Divide the apple mixture on one half of each pastry circle, leaving a 1-inch border along the long sides.  Carefully fold into half moons; brush the edge with egg wash, crimp the edges together to seal, and place on the prepared baking sheet.  Lightly brush the outside of each pie with the egg wash.
Bake until golden brown, 25-30 minutes minutes. Remove from oven. Cool slightly and drizzle with maple glaze.

Maple Glaze

1 1/2 cups powdered sugar

4 T cream

5 T maple syrup
Combine sugar, cream and syrup until smooth.

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