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Archive for May, 2010

Some of the world’s most delicious culinary inventions were born of necessity. Too much, too little, too fresh, too hard to transport?  Taste nirvana. Bacon, smoked salmon, duck confit, wine, whiskey, cheese, hominy, sauerkraut . . . all of these were an inventive solution to the problem of how to make the harvest last longer. Grain was nearly impossible to get across the mountains to population centers, but whiskey wasn’t; milk spoils in a few days, but cheese ages for months and months; bacon and salt pork could see people through from hog butchering time in November until the crops came up in the spring.

Modern refrigeration and global food transport mean we don’t really need such techniques any longer, but it doesn’t mean we have lost our collective taste for them. Life on a farm, even a small one, means we sometimes have much more of a delicate food than we can handle at once. We love for the chickens to eat well, but we can’t stand the thought of throwing anything out, much less growing food just for the chickens, so Mondays are often “pickling” days.  Stephanie, Theresa and Donna, picklers extraordinaire, and sometimes a few other folks, gather in the kitchen to put up endless jars of dilly beans, pepper jelly, bread and butters, pickled fennel, cucumber dills, blackberry compote, marmalade, sweet & spicy carrots . . . and all year long we eat well, thankful for the cool, sweet crunch of a carrot in the hottest days of summer, or the tongue-tingling heat of a pepper when we most need warming in winter and peppers are a distant memory.  Perhaps the loveliest part of the process is that it’s not a solitary enterprise.  All hands are busy and efficient, but not rushed, and conversations unfold in the warm, steamy vinegar and spice-perfumed air at a lazy, old-fashioned pace.  There’s plenty of time for everyone to talk, about everything and nothing in particular–recipes, like this one, or children, partners, politics, good books–our pantries, hearts, and minds filled to overflowing with abundance from the summer garden.

Deconstructed Stuffed Squash

adapted from Nigel Slater’s Tender vol. 1

2-3 zucchini or summer squash (a mix of varieties is fine), washed and cut into thick slices

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 bunch mint, chopped

1 bunch of dill, chopped

1 small handful parsley, chopped

pinch of red pepper flakes or 1 red jalapeno, sliced thin

1 pound ground pork

juice of 1 lemon

olive oil

Place squash with minced garlic and red pepper flakes or sliced jalapeno in a large bowl, season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil.  Toss to coat squash with oil.  Heat a large skillet over med-high heat and saute squash quickly until just tender.  Remove from skillet and set aside.  Add more olive oil to skillet, then add pork.  Season with salt and pepper and let brown without stirring too much, so that meat gets caramelized.  When cooked, return squash to skillet, add herbs and combine all gently.  Season to taste with salt and pepper and drizzle with lemon juice.  Serve with steamed brown rice.

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I heard Stephanie’s laugh before I ever laid eyes on her.  Thomas and I had just moved to Austin; we’d read about Dai Due supper clubs, and, intrigued, decided to attend one at Rain Lily Farm.  Poking around this magical little oasis in the middle of the city, I heard a throaty laugh, infectious and inclusive, soft and a little raspy, but full of liveliness and mischief.  I turned toward it, and thus was my life here in Austin defined.  We laugh a lot at The Farmhouse.  Early on in the business planning stages, we decided we would only deal with nice people.  One of the real perks of business ownership, we’ve also used this guiding principal for the other people we bring into the Farmhouse family.  Everyone who works with us is someone we’d gladly choose for a friend.  Our “staff meetings” always involve lots of laughter as well as true listening and time for everyone to share ideas.  Tink Pinkard, our master butcher and warehouse manager, keeps all our wheels turning and continuously inspires us with his commitment to humane animal husbandry and innovative business models.  The ever-essential Jesse Kelly-Landes keeps us organized and straight and manages to run a very successful bakery business on the side–she really is that amazing.  Josh Jones, fleet of foot, is filled with music and eternally enthusiastic, getting deliveries made in record time.  Martha Pincoffs, who knows everyone in the world, and is a smashingly good cook, has been a constant support since I first met her, knife roll in hand, ready to do anything.  And Jody Horton, talented enough to allow us all to see the beauty in the smallest, simplest, everyday things–he makes me laugh a lot too.  That famous magnetic laugh of Stephanie’s draws others into our sphere as well. Amazing people drop by the farm all the time, sometimes bearing funny little gifts.  And our customers . . . I had no idea when we started that the Farmhouse family would grow to include such friendly, warm, talented, and vibrant folks.  At potlucks and picnics, farm tours and happy hours, through this blog, email, facebook, twitter and by phone, I have been amazed at the incredible people we share food with each week.  Sometimes when I’m cooking dinner, I feel like we’re all having one big dinner party–everyone cooking up a storm.

Roasted Beets with Coriander-Citrus Vinaigrette

1 bunch beets, roasted, peeled and sliced

1 bunch spring onions, sliced

1/4 c. pistachios, toasted and coarsely chopped

1/4 c. fresh-squeezed orange juice

2 Tbs. red wine or sherry vinegar

pinch of cinnamon

1 Tbs. freshly toasted coriander seeds

salt & pepper to taste

1/2 c. olive oil

In blender container, combine orange juice, vinegar, cinnamon, and salt and pepper.  With blender running, slowly add olive oil until emulsified.  Add coriander seeds and pulse until crushed but not pulverized.  Arange sliced beets on platter and top with onion slices and pistachios.  Drizzle vinaigrette over and serve.

Indian Potatoes & Spinach

1 pound potatoes, scrubbed and boiled til just tender

1 bunch spring onions, sliced

2 Tbs. grapeseed oil

2 Tbs. butter

2 cloves garlic

1″ piece of ginger, peeled and finely minced

1 tsp. black mustard seeds

1 tsp. coriander seeds

1 tsp. turmeric

3 large handfuls baby spinach or other tender greens

juice of 1/2 lemon

Cut potatoes into quarters or large chunks and set aside.  Heat butter and oil in large skillet.  When butter foams, add onions, garlic, ginger, and spices, and saute until fragrant.  Add potatoes and stir to thoroughly coat with oil and spices.  Meanwhile, place spinach in a large bowl.  Season potatoes with salt to taste.  When they begin to get slightly crisp in places, turn them out on top of spinach in bowl.  Let sit without stirring until spinach wilts, then toss all together, correct for salt, and serve.  Delicious hot or at room temperature.

Beautiful and talented stylist Elizabeth Pecore sets the table.

The table is graced by Mod Green Pod’s Atticus print, designed by the lovely Nancy Mims (whose laugh is also one of my favorites).

Gorgeous serving pieces loaned by aesthetic mastermind Currie Person, proprietress of my favorite store on the planet–Spartan, a jewelbox of a space filled with carefully selected finds for the home.

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In the late afternoon, Rain Lily Farm is a magical place. The sun dips down behind the rows, staining the sky purple. Butterflies and bees are busy getting the last of the day’s nectar from chamomile and borage flowers, and the purple martins dip and swoop across the creek. The day’s heat begins to unloose its grasp; swaying slowly under the pecan tree, cool cocktail in hand, is the best place in the world to be. To celebrate spring, we recently planned a dinner party under the pecan trees, a collaborative feast that unfolded slowly, pulled from the field just hours before dinner. There’s a certain energy at Rain Lily that brings out the best in everyone. Our gatherings are never formal, but somehow still infused with meaning and ritual. The guest list is always fluid–it’s the kind of place where people drop by or bring along a friend. New connections are made, old friends feel familiar and comforting. Perhaps because the property is so tucked away, it feels like a secret garden, a very special oasis in our busy lives where time slows down and it’s easy to remember the other rhythms of our lives. The ones that are aligned with the seasons, and sunsets, and lightening bugs.

Grilled Leg of Lamb with Warm Spices

1 whole boneless leg of lamb

2 Tbs. paprika

3 tsp. coriander seeds

2 tsp. fennel seeds

2 tsp. cumin seeds

juice of 1/2 lemon

1 handful cilantro

1/3 c. olive oil

4 cloves garlic, peeled

1 red onion, quartered

salt & pepper

Toast seeds in a small skillet until fragrant. Place in blender with all remaining ingredients except onion and process to a smooth paste. Cover lam with paste and marinate for at least 4 hours & up to 24. Light charcoal fire in 1 half of grill. Allow coals to burn down. Place meat on grill side without charcoal. Cooking time will vary. Cover grill and cook to medium rare, turning frequently to ensure even crust. Allow to rest for 30-45 minutes before carving. Serve with radish or fennel raita.

Radish Raita

1 cup plain yogurt

1 small bunch of radishes, grated

1 shallot, minced

2-3 Tbs. orange or lemon juice

1/4 c. chopped mint

1/4 c. chopped cilantro

salt & pepper

Combine ingredients in a small bowl. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Grilled Carrots with Coriander & Spring Onion

1 bunch carrots, scrubbed

olive oil

salt & pepper

2 Tbs. coriander seeds, divided

3 cloves garlic, minced

juice of 1 lemon

1/3 c. olive oil

1 bunch spring onions, slivered

1 handful cilantro, chopped

1/4 c. pistachios, toasted and chopped

Toast coriander seeds in a small dry skillet until fragrant. Toss carrots with olive oil, salt and pepper and half of coriander seeds. Grill until charred and tender. Place lemon juice and garlic in a small bowl and allow to sit for 10-15 minutes. Add remaining coriander seeds and drizzle in olive oil in a thin, steady stream, whisking constantly, until emulsified. Place grilled carrots on platter and drizzle with vinaigrette. Top with spring onions, cilantro and pistachios.

more from the dinner party next week . . .

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