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Archive for September, 2010

When I was younger and not so wise, I was friends with a couple.  Let’s call them Henry and Sarah.  They were funny and smart, interesting, going places.  We all hit the road one weekend to celebrate another friend’s birthday in Houston.  After a lavish meal where the wine poured freely, I relaxed, thinking about the next full day I’d enjoy in the big city before heading back to Beaumont and the daily grind.  ”Where should we go for brunch tomorrow?” I wondered allowed.  Henry looked at me in disdain, his usual engaging expression clouding over with something that looked a little bit like disgust.  He brushed a crumb off the sleeve of his sleek blazer. “Brunch?  We just ate.  My life doesn’t revolve around food,” he said, secure and certain in his slim righteousness. Well, as you can imagine, that was pretty much it for Henry and Sarah.  ”What does it revolve around?” I wondered.  What other focus is there that encompasses everything that makes us human–the emotional, the spiritual, the political, the practical, the aesthetic, the intellectual experience?  I never made that mistake again.

My friend Rachel Lomas knows from food.  On the first day of school two years ago, another friend called across the schoolyard, “You need to meet my friend Rachel.  She loves food too!”  It didn’t hurt that she and her husband Andy are also funny, smart, interesting, going places.  Last year, I invited Rachel along on a weekend trip that included food writers, chefs, farmers, growers and photographers.  There was lots of impressive food coming to the table that weekend, but we all elbowed each other out of the way to get to Rachel’s dishes–a pork and green chile stew, crab dip with creme fraiche, and a radish salad that was unlike anything we’d ever tasted.  Rachel is talented in an intuitive way.  Her food tastes vibrant and alive, surprising and exciting.  Best of all, she loves to share recipes, and they always come out as good as you remember.  And on top of that, she’s the kind of friend you can call to come on a picnic at the last minute.  She’ll show up in high heels, bringing a bottle of pink champagne and her beautiful family, she’ll laugh at your stories, and she’ll wonder what we should eat the next time we get together.

Almond-Fried Chicken Wings or Legs

2 pounds chicken wings or legs

1 c. flour (substitute Pamela’s gluten free baking mix if desired, and omit almonds)

1/4 c. ground almonds

salt & pepper

grapeseed oil for frying

Mix together flour, almonds, salt and pepper.  Dredge chicken pieces in mixture and fry in large skillet with high sides.  Fry chicken pieces over medium-high heat until cooked through.  Drain on paper towels.  Serve hot or at room temperature.

Potato Salad with Salsa Verde

2 pounds new potatoes

1/4 c. mint leaves

1/4 c. basil leaves

1/4 c. flat leaf parsley leaves

1/4 c. chives

juice of 1/2 lemon

2 Tbs. capers

1 anchovy, rinsed and drained

1/4 c. olive oil

salt & pepper

1/3 c. grated ricotta salata or crumbled feta cheese

Cut potatoes into quarters and boil until just cooked.  Meanwhile, place herbs, lemon juice, capers, olive oil and anchovy in blender or food processor and blend until almost smooth.  When potatoes are cooked, drain and while still hot, pour dressing over and stir to combine.  Allow to come to room temperature and top with ricotta salata or eta and serve at once.

Radish Salad with Chile-Piave Cinaigrette

This salad was so amazing, it inspired our friend Penny De Los Santos to invite Rachel into her studio kitchen for a photo shoot for Design Sponge.  Find the recipe here.  And if you don’t already, you should follow Penny’s blog religiously.  Her life is full of amazing experiences and her talent knows no bounds. You’re already familiar with her work in Saveur, National Geographic, Gourmet and elsewhere.

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Food just tastes better outdoors.  Breathing fresh air, drunk on sunshine and a slight breeze . . . I love a picnic.  An al fresco repast can be as simple as cheese, bread & charcuterie, but if I can find a picnic table and a grill, I like to plan something just a little more elaborate.  I bring dessert made, chicken brined and ready to go on the grill, and ingredients for salads already prepped.  With a plan like this, even on a weeknight we can steal a few moments from our hectic lives and come home, tumble into bed and dream about the stars peeking out in the purple dusk and an evening filled with stories, laughter and more than a little magic.

Honey-Brined Grilled Chicken

2 chickens, halved (save backbones for stock)

1/2 c. kosher salt

1/4 c. sugar

1/4 c. honey

Rustic Romesco Relish

4 small to medium sweet red peppers

2 tomatoes

1 clove garlic

1/3 c. whole almonds

olive oil

juice of 1/2 lemon

small handful basil leaves

salt

Dissolve honey, sugar, and salt in 2 cups boiling water.  Add 4 quarts cold water to brine.  Submerge chicken halves in brine and place in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours and up to 12.  When ready to grill, remove from brine and pat dry.

Make a fire in on side of grill or smoker.  Brush chickens with a little olive oil and begin grilling over indirect heat (the side with no coals).  Place almonds and garlic in small heavy skillet and place on grill to toast.  When toasted and fragrat, remove from grill and set aside.  Place peppers and tomatoes over direct flame and grill until charred.  Remove from heat and cool slightly.

Continue grilling chickens, turning frequently, until done all the way through.  When done, remove from heat to rest.

Remove skin from tomatoes, and any charred bits of skin from peppers.  Chop tomatoes and peppers with a large knife very finely.  Chop almonds and garlic and add to pepper and tomato mixture.  Add chopped basil and lemon juice, then pour in enough olive oil to create a loose, saucy consistency.  Add salt to taste and serve with grilled chicken.

Walnut Apple Cake

adapted from Cannelle et Vanille

1 small container plain yogurt

1 yogurt container demerrarta sugar

1 yogurt container sugar

4 eggs

1/2 yogurt container Texas olive oil

1/2 yogurt container grapeseed oil, or other neutral, light oil

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

1 tsp. cinnamon

3 yogurt containers flour or gluten-free baking mix (I used Pamela’s)

1/4 tsp. xanthan gum if using Pamela’s

1 Tbs. baking powder

1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 c. walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

4 Gala apples

2 Tbs. butter

2 Tbs. sugar

Preheat oven to 350.  In a 9″ iron skillet, melt 1 Tbs. butter and saute 2 apples, sliced and sprinkled with 1 Tbs. sugar, until golden.  Place in a small bowl and set aside.  Dice remaining two apples and saute in remaining 1 Tbs. butter and 1 Tbs. sugar until golden.  Remove to a separate small bowl.  Return apple slices to skillet in a more or less even layer.

In a mixing bowl, combine cinnamon, flour or baking mix, xanthan gum if using, baking powder, and salt.  Combine with a whisk until completely blended.  In a separate bowl, combine yogurt, sugars, eggs, oils, and vanilla bean paste.  Whisk until thoroughly combined.  Add liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients and whisk until combined.  Fold in diced apples and walnuts and pour in skillet over sliced apples.  Bake for about 30 minutes of until cake tester comes out clean.

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These days, I find myself longing for the flavors of fall, only to step outside and discover that the seasons haven’t quite caught up with me.  To make matters more confusing in this short season between blistering hot and biting cold, “winter” squash is a summer crop here in Central Texas.  Our challenge is to find dishes that make the most of this funny season, providing full, rich flavors without weighing down the body or the palate.  I love composed salads this time of year.  More a main dish than something relegated to the side, this is exactly what I’m looking for–hearty, seasonal and soul-satisfying without being overwhelming.

Roasted Butternut Squash Salad with Hazelnuts & Manchego

1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 2″ cubes

several handfuls of arugula or baby salad greens, washed and spun dry

1/4 c. hazelnuts

2 oz. manchego cheese, shaved with a vegetable peeler

olive oil

salt & pepper

2 Tbs. champagne or white wine vinegar

1 Tbs. whole grain mustard

1 large shallot, sliced thin

pinch of sugar

1/3 c. olive oil

Toss squash with olive oil, salt and pepper.  Roast at 375 for about 15-20 minutes, until caramelized and tender, stirring occasionally.  Meanwhile, place hazelnuts in a small pan and place in oven with squash for about 5-10 minutes.  When nuts smell fragrant and begin to color, remove from oven and place on kitchen towel.  Gather them in the towel and rub until the papery skins come off.  Set aside to cool.  Place vinegar, mustard, shallots, and pinch of sugar in a small bowl and whisk until sugar dissolves.  Add olive oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly until emulsified.  Chop hazelnuts coarsely and set aside.  When squash is done, remove from the oven and toss with vinaigrette.  Toss arugula or baby greens separately and pile onto serving platter.  Scatter roasted squash and manchego on top and serve.

www.jodyhorton.com

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Every now and then, someone writes in to let us know they’ve discovered a bug in their delivery. I always stop myself from saying, “Oh no problem, we won’t charge you extra!” Bugs are, in fact, a pretty important part of our operation. Just before Mother’s Day, Stephanie took me out to the garden to show me what the ladybugs were up to.  The dill plants were in full flower—soon we would be able to harvest dill seed to make pickles out of the sweet little gherkins that were just making their appearance on the cucumber vines.  In the meantime, though, the ladybugs had set up camp there, and they were busy indeed.  Baby ladybugs hatched each day, and the mothers were busy feeding and caring for their young. On just a few stems of dill, all that is healthy and abundant in the garden were brought to light.
All good organic farmers and growers understand balance and harmony. People often ask Stephanie why, since we don’t hatch eggs on the farm, she has a rooster. “Balance,” she always replies. The hens enjoy having a rooster around for protection and to keep the pecking order in balance. So much about growing food relies on balance. In the late spring, the harlequin beetles move in—notorious for their voracious love of all brassicas, I was terrified of what havoc they would wreak on the end-of-season kale, cabbage, and brussels sprouts, but Stephanie seemed relaxed. She pointed to a shabby patch of spent kale and said, “We’ll leave that for them and they’ll be happy.” Sure enough they were, and left the thriving, strong plants alone. Plants weakened by pesticides, chemical fertilizers, and environmental stresses are much more appealing to all sorts of pests and maladies, so really it was balance that saved us again. Spraying for beetles would have created a disharmony that would cause greater problems down the line.
The garden is alive, and everything in it has a place and a function—it’s not possible to remove every threat to each plant and preserve the delicate ecosystem. Attack by chemicals is a self-defeating proposition. We look to the ladybugs, to the purple martins and the earthworms to tell us whether the garden is healthy or not. Years ago, my family was eating in a Chinese restaurant when my mother discovered a bug in her stir-fry. She called the waiter over, and he examined her plate with concern and distress. When he saw the bug, though, his expression lifted and cleared, and with a big smile he said, “Oh! Vegetable bug!” Another sort of bug might have been cause for refund or replacement, but a vegetable bug . . . what else would you expect in a plate of vegetables?
Shrimp Tacos with Apple Cucumber salsa and Chipotle Crema
1 pound shrimp, peeled, deveined & chopped
fish fry or finely ground cornmeal
salt & pepper
grapeseed oil, or other neutral-flavored oil for frying
corn tortillas
2 apples, diced
2 cucumbers, diced
1/2 small red onion, minced
2-3 jalapenos, minced (seeds and membranes removed for less heat)
small handful cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
juice of 1 lime
1 Tbs. apple cider vinegar
pinch of raw sugar
1/2 c. creme fraiche or sour cream
1-2 canned chipotle chiles, chopped to a paste (remove seeds for less heat)
1 avocado
Season fish fry or cornmeal with salt and pepper. Toss shrimp pieces in fish fry until coated. Heat oil in small heavy skillet. Fry shrimp quickly and remove to brown paper bags or paper towels to drain.
In a medium sized bowl, toss diced apples and cucumber with jalapenos, red onion, cilantro, lime juice, vinegar and pinch of sugar. Season with salt and pepper if desired. Place creme fraiche or sour cream in a small bowl and add chipotle paste. Thin with a little bit of cream if necessary. In another small bowl, mash avocado with a little lime juice with a fork. To assemble tacos: heat tortillas on a well-seasoned dry iron skillet until soft and beginning to puff. Fill with shrimp and avocado, then top with chipotle crema and apple cucumber salsa & serve.

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