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Archive for December, 2010

After weeks of slow death by heavy food, my palate craves something spicy and vibrant, and only Thai food will do.  Luckily, I’ve been schooled by the best teacher–Jam Sanitchat, owner of Thai Fresh.  Her cooking classes reveal how easy it is to master Thai dishes like this delicious curry, and how soul-satisfying they can be when made with local produce and meats.  I’ve made a vegetarian version here, but it’s just as delicious with pork or chicken.  I love the tangy acidity of the green tomatoes with the sweet and creamy pumpkin and coconut milk.  An everyday dish, to be sure, but worthy of its own celebration.

Thai Red Curry with Pumpkin & Green Tomato

1 butternut squash or small pumpkin, peeled and cut into cubes

2-3 green tomatoes (optional), cut into large cubes

1 Tbs. neutral flavored oil, such as peanut or grapeseed

3 Tbs. red curry paste

2 cans coconut milk

3 Tbs. fish sauce, or to taste

pinch sugar

juice of 1 lime

handful or fresh cilantro

1 package flat rice noodles, soaked in warm water until al dente, and drained

Heat oil in large saucepan.  Add curry paste and fry briefly, until fragrant.  Open the cans of coconut milk without shaking them.  There will be a layer of thicker coconut cream on top and more watery coconut juice on the bottom.  Scoop coconut cream off top of cans, and add to pot.  Continue to fry over medium-high heat for 1-2 minutes, whisking to combine.  Add remaining watery coconut milk to pot and heat to a simmer.  Add squash or pumpkin and green tomatoes.  Simmer until squash is tender.  Balance flavors with fish sauce, sugar and lime to taste.  Coarsely chop half the cilantro and add to curry.  Place rice noodles in serving bowls and ladle hot curry over the top.  Serve with handfuls of fresh cilantro on top, and extra lime wedges for squeezing at the table.

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My father’s mother, Granny Mehaffy, was not known for her skills in the kitchen.  She was a grandmother who smelled more of scotch and tasteful perfume than vanilla.  She was tiny, bright, and brisk, and before we accepted an invitation to her house for dinner, we always settled on where we’d be going to eat afterwards.  One time, my father asked if he could bring a guest.  She loved company, so she said sure, and just split the Lean Cuisine four ways instead of three.  Truly.

She loved gathering people together; she just didn’t believe in eating much more than the bare minimum needed for survival.  There was one specialty for which she was renowned, however.  Perhaps because it could be made ahead, and was fashioned into a festive ring, tomato aspic graced the table at any more formal gathering.  Basically tomato jello, she often dressed it up a bit with cucumber chunks or avocado slices.  It always sat there, neglected and forlorn.  Maybe that explained why she thought people were never hungry.

My father always said that being grown up meant having more than one piece of bacon.  Clearly, she was not my inspiration for food.  But, nevertheless she lives on in the life I live every day.

Of course she was not a woman who “worked,” unless you count the garden club, symphony club, daily tennis, and junior league work, which I might.  But she had an office at home, and was very busy there, too busy to be mired down in the kitchen cooking.  Every day, she furiously typed letter to senators and congressmen, local officials and influential citizens.  Bangle bracelets jangling, she typed letters of protest against bad environmental policy, discrimination, poverty, racism, offenses against the English language.  She spearheaded Beaumont’s first recycling efforts and campaigned for the legalization of marijuana.  In the summer in West Texas, we walked along the Frio river, erecting No Littering signs (catchy rhymes constructed in perfect iambic pentameter that were perhaps lost on the locals tossing Big Red bottles and Frito bags into the river).  She voted, she wrote letters, she campaigned, and most of all she cared.  Her active citizenship was important.  Watching from the doorway of her office, I could see that passivity was not an option.  We can choose to make the world better, or we can choose to let the bad guys win, the ones making stupid choices, the greedy ones, the polluters, the ones who would hold back progress and education and the pursuit of happiness, by doing nothing.  That was our choice.  Not just on election day, but every day.  Now I find that this same purpose must inform everything I do as well.  So many things about her I treasure–a cheerful stubbornness, an optimistic sense that one day the world will all make sense, a full and total commitment to the proper use of the apostrophe for its and it’s,  and most of all a sense of joy in active civic engagement.

After she died, I waited at her house with my father for the Salvation Army to come pick up the last bits and pieces, and there on top of one of the boxes was her aspic ring.  I took it home, and it’s moved with me to every house ever since.  I’ve never used it, but that doesn’t mean it’s not important.  It’s a reminder that there’s a larger purpose to my life, that the small things do make a difference, that none of us should ever quit caring, or for one minute imagine that we’re off the hook for the way the world unfolds.

Ambrosia Salad

2 grapefruit

2 tangerines

2 oranges

2 cameo, fuji, or gala apples

1 pomegranate, seeds removed

1/4 cup pecan halves, toasted and coarsely chopped

1/4 cup sweetened coconut, toasted

1/2 cup vanilla yogurt

Follow these instructions for cutting grapefruit, tangerine, and citrus supremes.  Cut apple into chunks.  Combine fruit, citrus juice, and yogurt in a large bowl.  Stir in about half the coconut and pecans.  Place in serving dishes, and top with remaining coconut, pecans, and pomegranate seeds.

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Big birds are for celebrations.  Medium birds are for everyday.  And tiny birds are for everyday celebrations. I’m not sure why quail seem so exotic–they’re tasty, versatile and cook quickly & easily.  No one has to argue over who gets the white meat and who gets the dark.  In the midst of holiday madness, I feel a greater need to make quiet family dinners a reason to celebrate.  We realize how much we depend on our conversations around the family table to connect, to laugh together, to work out problems and to stay organized.  This is definitely not a time to stay in the kitchen making elaborate dinners, but a warming, fragrant bowl of citrus-scented greens and juicy grilled quail makes us all happy, ready again to face the flurry of holiday madness to come.

Grilled Quail with Winter Greens Agrodolce

4 semi-boneless quail

3 stems rosemary, needles pulled off & minced

olive oil

salt & pepper

2 bunches greens (collards, kale, mustard, broccoli greens, brussels sprouts greens, or a combination)

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 onion, cut into slivers

juice of 1 orange

2 Tbs. white balsamic vinegar

3 Tbs. golden raisins

1 Tbs. capers, rinsed and dried

1/4 c. olive oil + more for sauteeing

salt & pepper

Cover raisins with vinegar.  Set aside.  Rub quail with rosemary, salt, pepper, and olive oil.  Heat a cast iron grill pan over med-high heat.  Lower heat to medium and grill quail, turning frequently.  Meanwhile, heat olive oil in a large skillet or braising pan and add onions and garlic.  Cook over medium low heat until onions are golden.  Chop greens and rinse in a colander.  Set aside.  Drain raisins, reserving vinegar, and add to onions along with capers.  Continue cooking over med-low heat.  Meanwhile, combine orange juice and vinegar in a small bowl.  Slowly drizzle in 1/4 cup olive oil while whisking constantly until emulsified. Raise heat under onions, and add greens to pan, with water still clinging to the leaves.  Stir and continue cooking until greens are tender.  Pour half of dressing over hot quail, and stir the remaining into greens. Place piles of greens on dinner plates and serve quail on top.

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