Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Archive for July, 2011

Three days after Tess was born, I brought her home from the hospital, a perfect, round, pink baby, with a tuft of orange chick fluff on her head.  It had never occurred to me that I could create something so perfect, so beautiful, a being filled with sunshine and light from the moment she came into this world.  I thought it would take me time to love her, to know her, but there she was from the very beginning.  She lay sleeping in my grandfather’s wooden crib next to my bed and I sat for hours looking at her clear brow, her sweetly balled up fists, her perfect little mouth.  Suddenly I felt like I had been punched in the stomach.  A voice of darkness whispered in my ear, “Someday, she’s going to leave.”  What a dirty, dirty trick.  I am a planner, an organizer, a strategist, and I had not accounted for this, this giant love that was bigger than me, that would forever be beyond my control.  I would love her so much my heart ached with joy, and if I did everything right, she would leave me.  To stop the panic I convinced myself in that moment that it would be a really long time before that happened–ages, really.  Yet here I am, almost twelve years later, and all I did was blink.

In that moment looking down upon my sleeping baby, the strategist in me wondered what I could do to forever tie us together without binding too tightly.  What would we do to weave the too-short years into a tapestry of love and warmth and light and connection?  Food would work that magic, just as it had for me and my parents and their parents and their parents. Together we have laughed and cried and yelled and wondered and shared over plates of pasta, warm bowls of soup, stacks of pancakes, and the scents and tastes have become us, our family, our memories.  And when we do the practice leaving that all good parents must, it is food that sees us through it.  What did we talk about at dinner the night before we dropped baby girl at camp for two weeks?  What we would have the night she got back, of course.  ”But I don’t want to go out to dinner.  I want you to cook,” she said.  ”Promise?”  Yes, I promise.

Grilled Stuffed Sweet Peppers

adapted from The Homesick Texan via Robb Walsh

1/2 pound breakfast sausage meat
1/2 pound ground beef
1 cup cooked rice
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
Cayenne pepper
3 small sweet peppers

Yield: 6 small pepper halves

Combine the sausage, ground beef, rice, eggs, parsley and spices together in a bowl.  Cut the peppers in half through the stem and removed seeds and membranes. Fill each half pepper with meat mixture. Mound the meat no more than a 1⁄2 inch over the top edge of each pepper. The stuffed peppers can be made in advance to this point and stored covered in the refrigerator for several days.

Build a medium hot fire off to one side in the grill. Cook pepper side down over the cooler side for 10 to 12 minutes, until the pepper is charred and soft. Turn the stuffed peppers over and cook on the hotter side of the grill for about 5-10 minutes until lightly browned. Test for doneness and serve.

Read Full Post »

Late-summer crops are always full of memories.  Perhaps because I spent so much of my childhood summers in Louisiana with my grandparents, or perhaps just because summer cooking took over my grandmother’s life and filled her house with the steamy scents of roasting okra and frying catfish, or perhaps because summer afternoons were spent among endless jars of pickled okra, tomatoes, and peach preserves.  These are the taste memories that are strongest for me, and summer is the time I most often remember that I am a Southern girl, one who grew up on the sandy soil of Southwest Louisiana.

Not long ago, I discovered the lush and deeply evocative writing of Edna Lewis.  Her classic, The Taste of Country Cooking, is a gorgeously written history (in the guise of a cookbook) of a vanished time and place. Lewis, the granddaughter of freed slaves who went on to become a hugely successful New York city chef, recounts growing up in Freetown, Virginia—a place and time captured for us in the gorgeous prose and dreamy amber of her memory. Her recipes and stories are divided into seasons, and she recounts the joys of the first asparagus in spring—the taste must have been so alive, so green after months of winter when the ground yielded nothing fresh to eat. She talks about catching shad—fish that came from the ocean to the inland waterways to spawn in the spring. That was the only fish they ever had, and it only appeared in the spring. It was such a treat that it was served for breakfast. Summer brought watermelon cooled in the spring, and hand-churned ice cream. Fall brought earthy root vegetables and game, while winter meant long evenings near the fire and long-simmered holiday dinners. Each season had its rhythms, its joys, its celebrations, and its inevitable losses as one season waned to make room for the joys of another, the pain of loss forever salved by the glorious recompense of nature.

Read Edna Lewis and remember that summer is a season to be celebrated too.  As enchanted as I often am with the cuisines and dishes of far-off places, and while many writers assert that the United States has no food traditions or culture of its own, I am truly grateful to Miss Lewis for reminding me that I am from a place that has deep roots and taste memories, a place I am forever glad to call home.

Eggplant Gratin with Herbs and Creme Fraiche

2 medium to large eggplant, sliced 1/2″ thick

salt & pepper

olive oil

1 quart simple tomato sauce

3 Tbs. minced chives

3 Tbs. minced parsley

1 Tbs. thyme leaves

12 oz. creme fraiche or heavy cream

4 oz parmesan cheese, grated

Preheat oven to 375.  Season eggplant slices with salt and pepper.  Brush lightly with olive oil.  Heat a large skillet or griddle pan over med-high heat and fry eggplant slices in batches until golden on both sides.  Set aside while you prepare the creme fraiche.  Place creme fraiche or cream in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat.  Reduce to about 1 cup, then stir in half of the grated parmesan and all of the chopped herbs.  Season with a pinch of salt and pepper and set aside.  Oil a 9″ casserole or gratin pan and place eggplant inside in a single layer.  Cover with a thin layer of simple tomato sauce and a sprinkle of parmesan.  Make two more layers of eggplant and sauce, covering the top with tomato sauce.  Ladle over the reduced creme fraiche or cream and sprinkle on a final layer of parmesan cheese.  Bake uncovered until browned and bubbling, about 25-30 minutes.  Let rest briefly before serving.  Also delicious at room temperature.

Read Full Post »

Eating is a moral act. Eating is a political act. Eating can be an act of delicious rebellion, joyful defiance in the face of corporatism and greed. For this holiday celebrating our freedom, let us not forget to celebrate our most fundamental rights as eaters, for what we eat determines who we are. We all eat together, every day, as one great nation. Let us pause for a moment today and consider what we bring to the table.

Eaters’ Bill of Rights:

  • Eaters have a right to food.
  • Eaters have a right to safe food.
  • Eaters have a right to nutritious food.
  • Eaters have a right to food with country of origin labels.
  • Eaters have a right to food with labels for genetic modification.
  • Eaters have a right to know whether food has been genetically modified.
  • Eaters have a right to food produced without harming air, water or land.
  • Eaters have a right to food produced under socially just circumstances.
  • Eaters have a right to know the conditions of their food production:
    • Is the environment harmed?
    • Is the food safe?
    • Are the animals treated with dignity and respect?
    • Is the food produced on farms by family farmers?
    • Is the food produced by factories?
    • Are the farmers paid a just wage?
    • Do farm workers have safe and healthy working conditions?
    • Are production contracts fair or one-sided?
    • Are processing plant and warehouse workers paid just wages?
    • Are processing plant workers given reasonable work schedules?
  • Is the food produced locally or transported for thousands of miles?
  • Is the food system controlled by a few agribusiness cartels?
  • Eaters around the world have a right to a secure food system.
  • Eaters have a right to good food at a fair price.

Thai Pork Omelette with Heirloom Tomatoes & Fresh Herbs

1 Tbs. grapeseed oil (or other flavorless oil)

1 medium-hot pepper, diced

2 small spring onions or 1 bunch green onions, sliced thin

2-3 cloves garlic, minced

1″ piece of ginger, peeled and grated

1/3 pound ground pork

3 eggs, lightly beaten with a pinch of salt

1 medium heirloom tomato (or 6 cherry tomatoes, cut in half), diced

Asian basil

cilantro

mint

small head of butter lettuce

Dipping Sauce:

juice of 1/2 lime

1/4 c. fish sauce

3 Tbs cool water

1 dried red chile, crumbled

pinch sugar

Mix together ingredients for dipping sauce in a small bowl and set aside. Separate lettuce into leaves, wash, dry, and set aside. Pick herb leaves, wash, dry, and set aside. Chop a few basil and cilantro leaves and hold separately. Heat a small skillet over medium high heat. Coat skillet with oil, swirling to cover bottom and sides. Saute onions, garlic, chile pepper and ginger. After about 30-45 seconds, add pork and stir-fry until cooked through. Spread contents of skillet in even layer and add beaten eggs, tilting skillet to distribute evenly. Distribute chopped tomato over omelette as it cooks and sprinkle with reserved chopped basil and cilantro. Pull sides of omelette towards center of skillet as it cooks, letting uncooked egg run underneath. When it is almost cooked, use a spatula to turn omelette over and quickly brown the other side. When cooked, serve wrapped in lettuce leaves, with dipping sauce, showered with fresh herbs.

Read Full Post »

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 118 other followers