Late-summer crops are always full of memories. Perhaps because I spent so much of my childhood summers in Louisiana with my grandparents, or perhaps just because summer cooking took over my grandmother’s life and filled her house with the steamy scents of roasting okra and frying catfish, or perhaps because summer afternoons were spent among endless jars of pickled okra, tomatoes, and peach preserves. These are the taste memories that are strongest for me, and summer is the time I most often remember that I am a Southern girl, one who grew up on the sandy soil of Southwest Louisiana.
Not long ago, I discovered the lush and deeply evocative writing of Edna Lewis. Her classic, The Taste of Country Cooking, is a gorgeously written history (in the guise of a cookbook) of a vanished time and place. Lewis, the granddaughter of freed slaves who went on to become a hugely successful New York city chef, recounts growing up in Freetown, Virginia—a place and time captured for us in the gorgeous prose and dreamy amber of her memory. Her recipes and stories are divided into seasons, and she recounts the joys of the first asparagus in spring—the taste must have been so alive, so green after months of winter when the ground yielded nothing fresh to eat. She talks about catching shad—fish that came from the ocean to the inland waterways to spawn in the spring. That was the only fish they ever had, and it only appeared in the spring. It was such a treat that it was served for breakfast. Summer brought watermelon cooled in the spring, and hand-churned ice cream. Fall brought earthy root vegetables and game, while winter meant long evenings near the fire and long-simmered holiday dinners. Each season had its rhythms, its joys, its celebrations, and its inevitable losses as one season waned to make room for the joys of another, the pain of loss forever salved by the glorious recompense of nature.
Read Edna Lewis and remember that summer is a season to be celebrated too. As enchanted as I often am with the cuisines and dishes of far-off places, and while many writers assert that the United States has no food traditions or culture of its own, I am truly grateful to Miss Lewis for reminding me that I am from a place that has deep roots and taste memories, a place I am forever glad to call home.
Eggplant Gratin with Herbs and Creme Fraiche
2 medium to large eggplant, sliced 1/2″ thick
salt & pepper
olive oil
1 quart simple tomato sauce
3 Tbs. minced chives
3 Tbs. minced parsley
1 Tbs. thyme leaves
12 oz. creme fraiche or heavy cream
4 oz parmesan cheese, grated
Preheat oven to 375. Season eggplant slices with salt and pepper. Brush lightly with olive oil. Heat a large skillet or griddle pan over med-high heat and fry eggplant slices in batches until golden on both sides. Set aside while you prepare the creme fraiche. Place creme fraiche or cream in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce to about 1 cup, then stir in half of the grated parmesan and all of the chopped herbs. Season with a pinch of salt and pepper and set aside. Oil a 9″ casserole or gratin pan and place eggplant inside in a single layer. Cover with a thin layer of simple tomato sauce and a sprinkle of parmesan. Make two more layers of eggplant and sauce, covering the top with tomato sauce. Ladle over the reduced creme fraiche or cream and sprinkle on a final layer of parmesan cheese. Bake uncovered until browned and bubbling, about 25-30 minutes. Let rest briefly before serving. Also delicious at room temperature.
I am going to try to make this one night this week. I can’t wait! However, the link for the simple tomato sauce does not seem to be working. Can you help? Thanks!
Hi there- I just reposted the simple tomato sauce recipe! Let me know if you still don’t see it! Enjoy..
Can’t wait to try this. Your descriptions of the foods you remember as a Southern girl from Louisiana are so similar to mine as a young girl in western Georgia. My grandfather migrated from Italy to Georgia, and always had a huge garden. I would give my right arm for the eggplant he grew – and which I refused to eat as a girl! Thanks for the recipe
I just made this tonight. I found a photo of this eggplant dish on Pinterest, which linked to this page where I found the recipe. I must say… I am so happy that you have posted this! It is absolutely delectable! I made it for my boyfriend, who is a vegetarian — I am not, and haven’t ever made anything like this before — and he, and everyone at our dinner party said it was the best they have ever had. I will note that I did not use minced chives or parsley. Instead, I used Thyme and Rosemary and instead of basic tomato sauce I used garlic and basil tomato sauce. I can’t recommend this dish enough!
Hi Nickolas! I love the idea of trying this dish with thyme and rosemary!! Thanks for the inspiration :)
the link to your simple tomato sauce is gone. please repost or reply!! thanks
Hey Becky- sorry that link was lost in internet limbo land for a bit- here is that recipe though.. enjoy!!
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon fine grain sea salt
3 medium cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1 28-ounce can crushed red tomatoes
zest of one lemon
Combine the olive oil, red pepper flakes, sea salt, and garlic in a cold saucepan. Stir while you heat the saucepan over medium-high heat, saute just 45 seconds or so until everything is fragrant – you don’t want the garlic to brown. Stir in the tomatoes and heat to a gentle simmer, this takes just a couple minutes. Remove from heat and carefully take a taste. If the sauce needs more salt add it now. Stir in the lemon zest.
Makes about a quart of tomato sauce.
Dang and i had eggplant tonight for supper and i was tring to figure out all week what i was going to fix with it o well a little to late know as i fried it but i will most defantanly try this soon as i love eggplant.
Hello! I made this once before and loved it!! We had no left overs, which is an accomplishment in my book! Anywho, I was coming back to look at the recipe again to make ( I didn’t write it down and I can’t remember recipes to save my life) and the link to the simple tomato sauce isn’t working. :( I’m sure I could use something else, but I don’t want to chance messing up this wonderful recipe! Is there any way you could re-post the tomato sauce recipe? It would be greatly appreciated! :) Thank you so much!
Hey Emily! We are so glad you loved this dish! I’ll just post the recipe here for you :)
Let us know how it goes!!!
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon fine grain sea salt
3 medium cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1 28-ounce can crushed red tomatoes
zest of one lemon
Combine the olive oil, red pepper flakes, sea salt, and garlic in a cold saucepan. Stir while you heat the saucepan over medium-high heat, saute just 45 seconds or so until everything is fragrant – you don’t want the garlic to brown. Stir in the tomatoes and heat to a gentle simmer, this takes just a couple minutes. Remove from heat and carefully take a taste. If the sauce needs more salt add it now. Stir in the lemon zest.
Makes about a quart of tomato sauce.