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Oven Roasted Ratatouille

1 medium eggplant, cut into 2″ chunks

1 small handful cherry tomatoes

2-3 small sweet or med-hot peppers, cut into 1″ pieces

6 cloves garlic, unpeeled

olive oil

salt & pepper

6 sprigs thyme

Preheat oven to 400.  Place eggplant, tomatoes, peppers and garlic together in a large bowl.  Drizzle  olive  oil over all to coat and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Toss everything together until evenly coated and spread on baking sheet.  Tuck thyme sprigs in between, and roast until vegetables are soft.  Serve with crusty bread and a wedge of cheese.  Squeeze soft garlic from cloves and spread on the bread.

Three days after Tess was born, I brought her home from the hospital, a perfect, round, pink baby, with a tuft of orange chick fluff on her head.  It had never occurred to me that I could create something so perfect, so beautiful, a being filled with sunshine and light from the moment she came into this world.  I thought it would take me time to love her, to know her, but there she was from the very beginning.  She lay sleeping in my grandfather’s wooden crib next to my bed and I sat for hours looking at her clear brow, her sweetly balled up fists, her perfect little mouth.  Suddenly I felt like I had been punched in the stomach.  A voice of darkness whispered in my ear, “Someday, she’s going to leave.”  What a dirty, dirty trick.  I am a planner, an organizer, a strategist, and I had not accounted for this, this giant love that was bigger than me, that would forever be beyond my control.  I would love her so much my heart ached with joy, and if I did everything right, she would leave me.  To stop the panic I convinced myself in that moment that it would be a really long time before that happened–ages, really.  Yet here I am, almost twelve years later, and all I did was blink.

In that moment looking down upon my sleeping baby, the strategist in me wondered what I could do to forever tie us together without binding too tightly.  What would we do to weave the too-short years into a tapestry of love and warmth and light and connection?  Food would work that magic, just as it had for me and my parents and their parents and their parents. Together we have laughed and cried and yelled and wondered and shared over plates of pasta, warm bowls of soup, stacks of pancakes, and the scents and tastes have become us, our family, our memories.  And when we do the practice leaving that all good parents must, it is food that sees us through it.  What did we talk about at dinner the night before we dropped baby girl at camp for two weeks?  What we would have the night she got back, of course.  ”But I don’t want to go out to dinner.  I want you to cook,” she said.  ”Promise?”  Yes, I promise.

Grilled Stuffed Sweet Peppers

adapted from The Homesick Texan via Robb Walsh

1/2 pound breakfast sausage meat
1/2 pound ground beef
1 cup cooked rice
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
Cayenne pepper
3 small sweet peppers

Yield: 6 small pepper halves

Combine the sausage, ground beef, rice, eggs, parsley and spices together in a bowl.  Cut the peppers in half through the stem and removed seeds and membranes. Fill each half pepper with meat mixture. Mound the meat no more than a 1⁄2 inch over the top edge of each pepper. The stuffed peppers can be made in advance to this point and stored covered in the refrigerator for several days.

Build a medium hot fire off to one side in the grill. Cook pepper side down over the cooler side for 10 to 12 minutes, until the pepper is charred and soft. Turn the stuffed peppers over and cook on the hotter side of the grill for about 5-10 minutes until lightly browned. Test for doneness and serve.

Late-summer crops are always full of memories.  Perhaps because I spent so much of my childhood summers in Louisiana with my grandparents, or perhaps just because summer cooking took over my grandmother’s life and filled her house with the steamy scents of roasting okra and frying catfish, or perhaps because summer afternoons were spent among endless jars of pickled okra, tomatoes, and peach preserves.  These are the taste memories that are strongest for me, and summer is the time I most often remember that I am a Southern girl, one who grew up on the sandy soil of Southwest Louisiana.

Not long ago, I discovered the lush and deeply evocative writing of Edna Lewis.  Her classic, The Taste of Country Cooking, is a gorgeously written history (in the guise of a cookbook) of a vanished time and place. Lewis, the granddaughter of freed slaves who went on to become a hugely successful New York city chef, recounts growing up in Freetown, Virginia—a place and time captured for us in the gorgeous prose and dreamy amber of her memory. Her recipes and stories are divided into seasons, and she recounts the joys of the first asparagus in spring—the taste must have been so alive, so green after months of winter when the ground yielded nothing fresh to eat. She talks about catching shad—fish that came from the ocean to the inland waterways to spawn in the spring. That was the only fish they ever had, and it only appeared in the spring. It was such a treat that it was served for breakfast. Summer brought watermelon cooled in the spring, and hand-churned ice cream. Fall brought earthy root vegetables and game, while winter meant long evenings near the fire and long-simmered holiday dinners. Each season had its rhythms, its joys, its celebrations, and its inevitable losses as one season waned to make room for the joys of another, the pain of loss forever salved by the glorious recompense of nature.

Read Edna Lewis and remember that summer is a season to be celebrated too.  As enchanted as I often am with the cuisines and dishes of far-off places, and while many writers assert that the United States has no food traditions or culture of its own, I am truly grateful to Miss Lewis for reminding me that I am from a place that has deep roots and taste memories, a place I am forever glad to call home.

Eggplant Gratin with Herbs and Creme Fraiche

2 medium to large eggplant, sliced 1/2″ thick

salt & pepper

olive oil

1 quart simple tomato sauce

3 Tbs. minced chives

3 Tbs. minced parsley

1 Tbs. thyme leaves

12 oz. creme fraiche or heavy cream

4 oz parmesan cheese, grated

Preheat oven to 375.  Season eggplant slices with salt and pepper.  Brush lightly with olive oil.  Heat a large skillet or griddle pan over med-high heat and fry eggplant slices in batches until golden on both sides.  Set aside while you prepare the creme fraiche.  Place creme fraiche or cream in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat.  Reduce to about 1 cup, then stir in half of the grated parmesan and all of the chopped herbs.  Season with a pinch of salt and pepper and set aside.  Oil a 9″ casserole or gratin pan and place eggplant inside in a single layer.  Cover with a thin layer of simple tomato sauce and a sprinkle of parmesan.  Make two more layers of eggplant and sauce, covering the top with tomato sauce.  Ladle over the reduced creme fraiche or cream and sprinkle on a final layer of parmesan cheese.  Bake uncovered until browned and bubbling, about 25-30 minutes.  Let rest briefly before serving.  Also delicious at room temperature.

Eating is a moral act. Eating is a political act. Eating can be an act of delicious rebellion, joyful defiance in the face of corporatism and greed. For this holiday celebrating our freedom, let us not forget to celebrate our most fundamental rights as eaters, for what we eat determines who we are. We all eat together, every day, as one great nation. Let us pause for a moment today and consider what we bring to the table.

Eaters’ Bill of Rights:

  • Eaters have a right to food.
  • Eaters have a right to safe food.
  • Eaters have a right to nutritious food.
  • Eaters have a right to food with country of origin labels.
  • Eaters have a right to food with labels for genetic modification.
  • Eaters have a right to know whether food has been genetically modified.
  • Eaters have a right to food produced without harming air, water or land.
  • Eaters have a right to food produced under socially just circumstances.
  • Eaters have a right to know the conditions of their food production:
    • Is the environment harmed?
    • Is the food safe?
    • Are the animals treated with dignity and respect?
    • Is the food produced on farms by family farmers?
    • Is the food produced by factories?
    • Are the farmers paid a just wage?
    • Do farm workers have safe and healthy working conditions?
    • Are production contracts fair or one-sided?
    • Are processing plant and warehouse workers paid just wages?
    • Are processing plant workers given reasonable work schedules?
  • Is the food produced locally or transported for thousands of miles?
  • Is the food system controlled by a few agribusiness cartels?
  • Eaters around the world have a right to a secure food system.
  • Eaters have a right to good food at a fair price.

Thai Pork Omelette with Heirloom Tomatoes & Fresh Herbs

1 Tbs. grapeseed oil (or other flavorless oil)

1 medium-hot pepper, diced

2 small spring onions or 1 bunch green onions, sliced thin

2-3 cloves garlic, minced

1″ piece of ginger, peeled and grated

1/3 pound ground pork

3 eggs, lightly beaten with a pinch of salt

1 medium heirloom tomato (or 6 cherry tomatoes, cut in half), diced

Asian basil

cilantro

mint

small head of butter lettuce

Dipping Sauce:

juice of 1/2 lime

1/4 c. fish sauce

3 Tbs cool water

1 dried red chile, crumbled

pinch sugar

Mix together ingredients for dipping sauce in a small bowl and set aside. Separate lettuce into leaves, wash, dry, and set aside. Pick herb leaves, wash, dry, and set aside. Chop a few basil and cilantro leaves and hold separately. Heat a small skillet over medium high heat. Coat skillet with oil, swirling to cover bottom and sides. Saute onions, garlic, chile pepper and ginger. After about 30-45 seconds, add pork and stir-fry until cooked through. Spread contents of skillet in even layer and add beaten eggs, tilting skillet to distribute evenly. Distribute chopped tomato over omelette as it cooks and sprinkle with reserved chopped basil and cilantro. Pull sides of omelette towards center of skillet as it cooks, letting uncooked egg run underneath. When it is almost cooked, use a spatula to turn omelette over and quickly brown the other side. When cooked, serve wrapped in lettuce leaves, with dipping sauce, showered with fresh herbs.

I am un-American.  At least that is what people tell me when they discover that we don’t have a television.  ”Do you mean you don’t have cable?” they will sometimes ask, hopefully, thinking we might be a little pitiful, but not completely crazy.  No–I mean we don’t have a tv.  At all.  The last time I had a television was 1997.  After my last 90210 dinner party in 1993, I had moved it from apartment to apartment without ever turning it on, so I just got rid of it.  I have always hated the constant noise and chatter of tv, the commercials, the empty and unsatisfied feeling I had inside after watching for several hours.  I know that I can be rather extreme at times, but I didn’t like the way it made me feel, so I made it go away.  Simple as that.  Now, I can’t imagine which hours of the day I’d give up to fill with television–the time I lie sleepily in bed with my children at the end of the day? The stolen moments I spend reading books? The time I unwind cooking dinner, enjoying the soothing, repetitive satisfaction of chopping, slicing, stirring, meditating on the scents and textures that have nothing to do with spreadsheets, social media, or workaday minutia? I know if we kept a tv around, it would work its insidious way into our lives, for what is it for if not to be turned on? It has been lovely to raise children without a tv–when they were very little, they rode along in the grocery cart without ever whining or asking for sugary cereal, packages bedecked with cartoon characters. I never had to watch them become sharp and bitter with desire instilled by corporate advertising. I am not alone. I have a friend who also does not have a television. When people make tv references (which happens all the time in casual conversation), we just look at each other and shrug. We don’t get it. But that’s ok, because I don’t want it. I know that my choices are not for everyone. But I do believe it is possible to curate our own experience, to pick and chose what we want in our lives. I find this gloriously freeing . . . and pretty American after all.

Stuffed & Grilled Tomatoes with Garlic Ciabatta

More a method than a recipe, this is one of my favorite rituals of summer.  Allow about 3-4 toasts per person.  The quantities below make about 12 toasts.

For stuffing:

2 c. fresh breadcrumbs

1/4 c. grated parmesan

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 large handful itlalian parsley, chopped

chopped basil & chives

1/4 c. olive oil

salt & pepper to taste

For toasts:

6 tomatoes, cut in half, seeds scooped out

1 loaf ciabatta, cut into 12 slices

olive oil for brushing toasts

whole coves garlic, cut in half

Build a medium hot fire in grill.  Toss ingredients for stuffing together in a medium bowl and mix until olive oil is evenly distributed.  Pack stuffing fairly tightly into tomato seed cavities.  Brush ciabatta slices on both sides with olive oil.  Grill bread until golden.  While still slightly warm from grill, rub toasts with cut side of garlic clove on one side.  Place on platter in single layer and set aside.  Place tomatoes on grill, skin side down.  Grill until they are softened and bottoms are charred and blackened.  Remove from grill, placing on toasts skin side up.  When they are cool enough to handle, peel away charred skins and discard.  Use a fork to mash tomato into garlic toasts.  Drizzle with a little extra olive oil if desired and devour.

Thoughts on cooking real food from one of my favorite writers, Nigel Slater:

I passionately believe that anyone can make themselves something good to eat.  Cooking is a whole lot easier than many people think.  Good cooking–real cooking–is within the grasp of anyone with an appetite and a few pots and pans.  There is nothing difficult about it (it is only supper after all), so we can pretty much ignore all that stuff about it being “an art,” “a science” or “a gift.”

It takes no expertise to heat some butter and a squashed clove of garlic in a shallow pan till it froths and bubbles, then slide in a piece of chicken.  Let it cook till its skin is crisp and golden, then squeeze in half a lemon and serve it with its pan juices and a leafy salad to mop them up.  Anyone can slap a lamb chop on a hot grill pan, throw a handful of pasta into bubbling water or put an apple to bake in a hot oven.  I work from the not unreasonable premise that if someone can make a cup of coffee then they can probably roast themselves a chicken.

Real cooking is not about making fancy stocks and sauces, piping purees and perfecting spun-sugar baskets.  Real cooking is about making ourselves something to eat that involves a bit of simple roasting, grilling or frying.  Nothing complicated.  But it is cooking, rather than opening a packet or a tin.  As you will see, real cooking is also about the little things–the small points that turn straightforward cooking into good cooking.  The attention to detail that makes a simple supper into something sublime.

What makes something really good to eat?  What is the difference between cooking something that is merely fuel and something that is a joy to devour?  It is certainly not the need to make our cooking more complicated, neither is it an art that we must have at our fingertips.  It is simply the understanding of the little things that make something especially good; the golden, savory goo that builds up under a pork chop you have left to cook slowly in its pan; the intense flavor of the bits of lamb that have caught on the bars of the grill; the gravy that you make from the sticky bits left in the pan after you have sauteed some chicken thighs.  This is real cooking.  The roast potato that sticks to the roasting tin; the crouton from the salad that has soaked up the mustardy dressing; the underneath of the crust of a blackberry and apple pie, rich with purple juice; these are the things that make something worth eating.  And worth cooking.

Grilled Peach Salad with Buffalo Mozzarella & Arugula

6 peaches, cut in half and pitted

salt

3-4 large handfuls arugula, washed and dried

1 small red onion, slivered

5 oz. buffalo mozarella or other fresh mozzarella, torn into bite-size pieces

4 Tbs. white balsamic vinegar

2 tsp. honey

2 tsp. dijon or whole grain mustard

2 Tbs. minced chives

1/3 c. olive oil

2 Tbs. creme fraiche or 1 Tbs. heavy cream

Light a fire in grill and let it burn down to med-hot.  I like to build the fire on one side of the grill so I can move things around to different temperatures.  Lightly salt the cut sides of the peaches, drizzle very lightly with olive oil and place cut side down on the grill.  When the peaches are charred and just beginning to soften, remove them to a platter and set aside.  Make the dressing: place vinegar, honey, mustard and chives in a small bowl.  While whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in olive oil until emulsified.  Whisk in the creme fraiche or cream.  Toss arugula and onion with vinaigrette and place on serving platter or dish.  Nestle peaches and mozzarella amongst greens and drizzle with a little more dressing.  Sprinkle with coarse sea salt and serve.

“I’d be way too intimidated to cook for you.”  More than the note I still pay every month, more than the scars on my forearms, more than years of eighty hour weeks, more than the lost hours of youth-preserving sleep, more than anything, it is hearing these words that make me feel that having a restaurant just cost too damn much.  For a world in which no one wants to cook for me is too bleak to contemplate.  Such a statement is nonsense, for nothing makes me happier than other people’s real cooking.  My life is filled with women who make amazing food.  A tangle of warm, oily noodles, fragrant with herbs, enjoyed on the back porch on a warm summer night.  Fried chicken, followed by ice cream with sticky butterscotch sauce and toasted pecans.  Danish hotdogs (who knew?) with remoulade sauce and crunchy fried onion straws.  Sweet and tart pickled beets and homemade bread and butter pickles.  Just-harvested arugula leaves in a giant wooden bowl, their peppery bite mellowed by balsamic vinegar, good olive oil and crunchy flakes of sea salt.  A plastic tub of mocha buttercream to just stick fingers in and lick.  Or perhaps best, a sliver of Iberico ham fed to me like a baby bird with eyes closed.  The deep joy of surrendering to another’s care and efforts to delight.

We’ve been “home” this week, visiting my godmother, my mother-in-law, and my mother and at each stop along the way, each of them has put delicious, soothing, interesting, nostalgic, innovative, and beautiful food in front of me.  Chocolate cake, fresh East Texas pinto beans, homemade macaroni salad, cornbread with cheddar and dill, chicken fried in my grandmother’s iron Dutch oven, berries and mango cut up and set in front of me in the morning.  This is the ultimate vacation–freedom from care, the giddy certainty that at least twice a day someone will feed me well.  Please, cook for me.

Shaved Squash Salad

1 pound mixed summer squash, sliced very thin

1/4 c. basil leaves, coarsely torn

1 small red onion, sliced thin

juice of 1/2 lemon

1/3 c. olive oil

salt & pepper

1 Tbs. creme fraiche or sour cream

salt & pepper

1/4 c. sliced almonds, toasted

1/4 c. ricotta salata, grated

Combine squash, onions, and basil in a bowl.  To make dressing, whisk lemon juice and creme fraiche in a small bowl.  Drizzle in olive oil while whisking constantly, until emulsified. Toss squash with dressing, almonds and ricotta salata.  Serve immediately.

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